brakes
Brake Hose - Rear
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace the rear brake hose connecting the brake line to the rear brake caliper, including bleeding the brake system to restore proper hydraulic function.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL SYSTEM: Brake system failure can result in loss of braking ability, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never reuse copper crush washers on banjo bolts. Always install new washers to prevent brake fluid leaks.
⚠️Do not allow brake fluid to contact painted surfaces - it will damage paint immediately. Clean any spills with water immediately.
⚠️Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and contaminated fluid reduces braking performance.
⚠Brake fluid is toxic. Avoid skin contact and do not siphon by mouth. Wear safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves.
⚠Vehicle must be thoroughly tested in a safe area before returning to normal driving. Verify firm brake pedal and proper stopping ability.
ℹ️This procedure covers one rear brake hose. If both rear hoses are being replaced, complete one side fully including bleeding before starting the other side.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Lug wrench or 1/2" drive impact wrenchEssential
10mm flare nut wrenchEssential
14mm flare nut wrenchEssential
10mm wrench or socketEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Brake bleeder wrench or 8mm box wrenchEssential
Clear plastic tubing (6mm ID)Essential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Turkey baster or brake fluid transfer pump
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Clean shop ragsEssential
Parts
- Rear brake hose assembly × 1 — Use OEM Toyota specification
- Brake hose banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — Must be new, use OEM
- Brake line clip or retainer (if damaged) × 1 — Inspect before removal
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Clean the brake hose connection areas with wire brush to remove corrosion
- Apply penetrating oil to brake line fittings if visible corrosion is present (allow 10 minutes to soak)
- Open brake fluid reservoir and check level - do not overfill as fluid will be displaced during work
- Have replacement hose, new copper washers, and all tools ready before disconnecting any brake lines
Procedure
- 1Remove brake hose bracket mountingLocate the brake hose bracket where it mounts to the chassis or suspension component. Using a 10mm wrench or socket, remove the bracket bolt that secures the brake hose to the body/frame. Note the orientation and routing of the hose for reinstallation. Do not remove the hose from the caliper yet.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 2Disconnect brake line from brake hoseUsing a 10mm flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and disconnect the hard brake line from the rear brake hose at the chassis connection point. Hold the brake hose fitting steady with another wrench if needed to prevent twisting the hose. Allow brake fluid to drain into a container. Cap or plug the hard line immediately to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.⚠Use a flare nut wrench (6-point box wrench) to prevent rounding off the soft brake line fitting. A standard open-end wrench may damage the fitting.
- 3Remove banjo bolt from caliperLocate the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose to the rear brake caliper. Position a drain pan beneath the caliper. Using a 14mm flare nut wrench or socket, remove the banjo bolt. Brake fluid will drain from both the hose and caliper. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo fitting. Immediately plug the caliper inlet port with a clean rag or plug to prevent excessive fluid loss.ℹ️Note the position of the banjo fitting - it should route the hose without twisting when properly installed.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 4Remove old brake hoseRemove the brake hose completely from the vehicle, including any remaining clips or retainers. Inspect all connection points for damage or excessive corrosion. Clean the banjo fitting mounting surface on the caliper with a clean rag to ensure proper sealing with new washers.
- 5Prepare and route new brake hoseUnpack the new brake hose and verify it matches the original in length and fitting configuration. Ensure the protective caps are removed from both ends. Route the new hose through the chassis bracket following the same path as the original. Ensure the hose is not twisted and will not contact suspension components through full range of motion. Install any spring clips or retainers onto the hose.⚠Ensure brake hose routing allows full suspension travel and steering motion without stretching, kinking, or contacting moving parts.
- 6Install brake hose to caliperPlace one NEW copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting. Position the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread it into the caliper inlet port by hand. Ensure the hose is oriented correctly without twisting. Torque the banjo bolt to specification using a torque wrench. Verify the hose can move freely and is not kinked.⚠️NEW copper washers are mandatory. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 7Install hose bracket to chassisPosition the brake hose into the mounting bracket on the chassis or suspension component. Install the bracket bolt and torque to specification. Ensure the hose is properly seated in the bracket and cannot pull free. Double-check that the hose routing allows full suspension articulation.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 8Connect hard brake line to hoseRemove the plug or cap from the hard brake line. Thread the brake line into the brake hose fitting by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using the 10mm flare nut wrench, tighten the connection securely. Do not overtighten - the fitting should be snug but not require excessive force. Hold the hose fitting with a backup wrench if it begins to rotate.⚠Cross-threading will destroy the fitting. Ensure the line threads in smoothly by hand before using a wrench.
- 9Fill brake fluid reservoirGo to the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. Fill to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Keep the reservoir at least half full throughout the bleeding process. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry or air will enter the master cylinder.⚠️If reservoir runs empty during bleeding, the master cylinder will require bleeding and the procedure becomes significantly more complex.
- 10Bleed rear brake caliperLocate the bleeder screw on the rear brake caliper (typically on top or rear of caliper). Clean the bleeder screw area thoroughly. Attach clear plastic tubing to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a brake fluid catch container. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold firm pressure. While pressure is held, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Fluid and air will flow into the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until only clear, bubble-free fluid flows from the bleeder. Check and refill the reservoir frequently. Torque bleeder screw to specification when complete.⚠Never allow the brake pedal to return to the top while the bleeder is open, as this will draw air into the system.ℹ️If working alone, use a vacuum bleeder or one-way check valve bleeder tool as an alternative to the two-person method.Torque specBleeder Screw13 Nm (10 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheelClean the wheel hub surface and wheel mounting surface. Install the wheel and thread lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a wrench until snug but not fully torqued. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (still supported by jack). Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
- 12Final brake system check and pedal testWith the vehicle on the ground, pump the brake pedal multiple times. The pedal should become firm and hold steady pressure. If the pedal is soft or sinks to the floor, additional bleeding is required - do not drive the vehicle. Check all connection points for brake fluid leaks while assistant applies firm brake pedal pressure. Inspect the banjo bolt, brake line connection, and bleeder screw. Wipe away any residual fluid.⚠️A soft or spongy brake pedal indicates air in the system. Vehicle is unsafe to drive until pedal is firm.
Reassembly
- Double-check all brake line connections are tight and show no signs of leakage
- Verify brake hose is properly routed and secured in all brackets without twisting or contact with moving parts
- Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid
- Clean any brake fluid spills from painted surfaces, suspension components, and wheels
Verification
- With engine off, pump brake pedal firmly 5-10 times - pedal should be firm and not sink with constant pressure applied
- Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm (pedal may drop slightly with engine start due to brake booster activation - this is normal)
- Visually inspect all brake connections with brake pedal applied firmly - no fluid should be leaking
- Test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) and verify brakes apply evenly without pulling to one side
- Perform several moderate stops from 25-30 mph in a safe area to verify normal brake function and firm pedal feel
- After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks and verify wheel lug nuts remain tight
- Road test at normal speeds only after confirming all systems are functioning properly in controlled low-speed testing
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor CircuitC0121Electronic Parking Brake Motor Overcurrent
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →