Complete replacement of all brake lines from master cylinder to all four calipers, including hard lines and flexible hoses, ensuring proper routing, secure mounting, and complete system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Complete brake line kit (front to rear) × 1 — Toyota OEM or equivalent pre-bent kit for 2014-2019 Corolla
• Front brake hose set (flexible) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Rear brake hose set (flexible) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Brake line clips and retainers × 1 — Replace all removed clips
• Copper crush washers for banjo fittings × 8 — 14mm and 10mm as applicable

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 2 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. Apply parking brake and place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
2. Verify you have the correct complete brake line kit for your specific model year and confirm all fittings match original equipment.
3. Do NOT start engine or pump brake pedal once old lines are disconnected. Doing so will introduce air throughout the ABS system.
4. Raise vehicle and support securely on four jack stands at manufacturer lift points. Vehicle must be completely stable.
5. Remove all four wheels and set aside. Torque wrench will be needed for reinstallation.
6. Spray all brake line fittings with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 15-30 minutes before attempting removal.
7. Place drain pan under master cylinder area. Open master cylinder reservoir cap to allow fluid to drain freely.
8. Take detailed photos of original brake line routing, bracket positions, and clip locations before removal. This is critical for proper reinstallation.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front brake hoses from calipers
   Starting at the front wheels, locate the banjo bolt connecting the flexible brake hose to each caliper. Use a flare nut wrench to hold the hose fitting while loosening the banjo bolt with a box-end wrench. Remove the banjo bolt and two copper crush washers (one on each side of the fitting). Allow fluid to drain into a container. Cap or plug the caliper inlet to prevent excessive fluid loss and contamination. Repeat for both front calipers.
2. 2

   Disconnect front hoses from hard lines at frame brackets
   Trace each front flexible hose to where it connects to the hard line at the strut/frame mounting bracket. Use the appropriate size flare nut wrench on the hard line fitting (typically 10mm or 12mm) to prevent rounding. Unscrew the flexible hose from the hard line. Remove the retaining clip or bolt securing the hose bracket to the chassis. Remove both front flexible hoses completely.
3. 3

   Remove front hard lines from master cylinder to junction points
   At the master cylinder, identify the two outlet fittings for the front and rear brake circuits. Using a flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the front circuit line. Trace this line along the frame rail, removing all retaining clips and brackets as you go. The front line typically runs to a junction or distribution block on the frame. Remove bracket bolts securing line clips to the chassis. Disconnect at all junction points, keeping track of routing.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove rear brake circuit hard lines
   Beginning at the master cylinder rear circuit outlet, use flare nut wrench to disconnect the rear brake line. Follow this line along the chassis toward the rear axle, documenting routing and removing all clips and brackets. The line will typically run along the driver's side frame rail. Remove all bracket mounting bolts and clips. At the rear, disconnect lines at the junction block or flexible hose connection points for each rear wheel.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rear flexible brake hoses
   At each rear wheel, disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper using the same banjo bolt procedure as the front (remove bolt and crush washers). Trace each hose to its connection point at the chassis hard line junction. Use flare nut wrench to disconnect from hard line. Remove the bracket bolt securing the hose to the rear suspension or chassis. Remove both rear flexible hoses completely.
6. 6

   Inspect and prepare mounting locations
   With all old lines removed, thoroughly inspect all mounting bracket locations, chassis clips, and frame rails for corrosion, damage, or debris. Wire brush all threaded holes for bracket bolts. Clean master cylinder outlet ports and all caliper inlet ports with brake cleaner. Verify all new lines in the kit match the routing of the removed lines and that all fittings are compatible. Check that copper crush washers are included for all banjo connections.
7. 7

   Install new front hard lines to frame
   Beginning at the master cylinder, loosely thread the new front circuit hard line into the master cylinder outlet port. Do not fully tighten yet. Route the new line along the original path, referencing your photos. Install all chassis clips and bracket bolts to secure the line, but leave slightly loose to allow for final positioning adjustment. Route to the junction point or flexible hose connection location on each side. Ensure lines do not contact any moving parts, sharp edges, or exhaust components.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Install new rear hard lines to frame
   Loosely connect the new rear circuit hard line to the master cylinder rear outlet port. Route along the chassis following the original path exactly, securing with all clips and bracket bolts (loosely). Continue routing to the rear axle area where flexible hoses will connect. Verify clearance from fuel lines, exhaust, and suspension components throughout full suspension travel. Make any necessary minor bending adjustments using proper brake line bending tool only.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new front flexible brake hoses
   Install each new front flexible brake hose by first threading the hose end into the hard line connection at the frame bracket. Install the bracket retaining bolt or clip to secure the hose to the chassis. At the caliper end, position new copper crush washers on both sides of the caliper inlet fitting, then install and hand-tighten the banjo bolt. Ensure the hose is not twisted and has adequate slack for full steering and suspension movement. Repeat for both sides.
10. 10

    Install new rear flexible brake hoses
    Connect each new rear flexible hose to the hard line junction at the chassis, threading the fitting into the hard line connection. Secure the hose bracket to the rear suspension or chassis mounting point with the retaining bolt. At each rear caliper, install new copper crush washers on both sides of the fitting and install the banjo bolt hand-tight. Verify hoses have proper routing and clearance through full suspension travel (compress and extend suspension to check).
11. 11

    Torque all brake line connections
    Working systematically from the master cylinder outward, use a torque wrench and flare nut wrench to properly tighten all hard line fittings. Typical specification is 15-18 Nm (11-13 lb-ft) for brake line flare fittings, though verify with manufacturer specifications. Torque all banjo bolts at calipers to 30-35 Nm (22-26 lb-ft) or per manufacturer specification. Torque all bracket mounting bolts to specification. Double-check that no fittings were missed.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts97 Nm (71 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Fill master cylinder and perform initial system fill
    Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Starting at the right rear caliper (furthest from master cylinder), remove the bleeder screw dust cap. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw and place the other end in a container. Have an assistant slowly press the brake pedal 3-4 inches (do NOT pump to the floor) while you open the bleeder screw 1/4 turn. Close bleeder before pedal reaches bottom. Repeat until fluid flows from bleeder with no large air bubbles. Keep master cylinder topped off throughout this process.
    ⚠Never allow master cylinder reservoir to run empty during bleeding or air will enter the ABS hydraulic unit, requiring professional scan tool-assisted bleeding.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Complete brake system bleeding sequence
    Continue bleeding in the sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, left front (furthest to closest from master cylinder). At each wheel, repeat the bleeding process until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. Maintain firm, consistent pedal strokes and never let the pedal go to the floor rapidly. After bleeding all four wheels, check pedal feel - it should be firm with no sponginess. If pedal is soft, repeat bleeding sequence. Top off master cylinder to MAX line when complete.
    ⚠If brake pedal remains soft after multiple bleeding attempts, air may be trapped in the ABS unit and professional bleeding with a scan tool may be required.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Inspect all connections for leaks
    With the system bled and master cylinder filled, have an assistant apply firm, steady pressure to the brake pedal (approximately 50 lbs of force) and hold. Inspect every single connection point: master cylinder outlets, all hard line fittings, all bracket connections, flexible hose connections, and all four caliper banjo bolts. Look for any sign of fluid seepage or dripping. Wipe each connection dry with a clean cloth and re-inspect. If any leak is found, release pedal pressure, correct the issue, and re-bleed that circuit.
15. 15

    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Reinstall all four wheels, hand-tightening lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until tires just touch the ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. Torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Check master cylinder fluid level one final time and top off to MAX line if needed. Pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times - pedal should feel firm and consistent. If pedal sinks or feels spongy, do not drive vehicle and repeat bleeding procedure.
    ⚠️DO NOT drive vehicle on public roads until brake function is verified in a controlled environment at low speed.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure master cylinder cap is securely reinstalled after final fluid level check.
2. Verify all brake line clips and retainers are installed and secure - loose lines can abrade and fail.
3. Double-check that no brake lines contact the exhaust system, suspension components, or steering linkage through full range of motion.
4. Wipe down all brake fluid spills immediately with water to prevent paint damage.
5. Test parking brake function before moving vehicle.

Verification

• In a safe, empty parking lot or driveway, drive vehicle forward at 5 mph and apply brakes firmly. Vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to one side. Pedal should feel firm and responsive.
• Perform several low-speed stops (under 15 mph) to verify consistent brake response and pedal feel.
• After initial test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks with vehicle on level ground and pedal pressure applied.
• Check master cylinder fluid level after test drive - significant drop indicates a leak that must be found and corrected.
• Before returning to normal driving, perform moderate-speed brake tests (25-35 mph) in a safe area to confirm full braking capability.
• Re-inspect all connections after 50-100 miles of driving and check fluid level. Any signs of leakage require immediate attention.
• If ABS warning light illuminates or brake pedal feels abnormal at any point, stop driving immediately and seek professional diagnosis.

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