Rebuild front brake calipers by disassembling, cleaning, replacing seals and boots, and reassembling with new components to restore proper braking function.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (includes pistons, seals, dust boots) × 2 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake fluid × 1 — DOT 3
• Caliper slide pin grease × 1 — Silicone-based brake grease

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
3. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
4. Remove both front wheels completely
5. Open brake fluid reservoir cap to relieve pressure (cover opening with clean rag to prevent contamination)
6. Verify you have correct rebuild kit for your specific caliper type (single or dual piston)
7. Prepare clean workspace with all tools and parts organized

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from vehicle
   Place drip pan under caliper. Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (typically 14mm) that secure the caliper to the bracket. Lift caliper off rotor and suspend from suspension using wire or bungee cord - never let it hang by the brake hose. Remove brake pads and note their orientation.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake line
   Place rag under brake line connection to catch fluid. Using 10mm or 12mm flare nut wrench, carefully loosen and remove the brake hose banjo bolt from the back of the caliper. Remove and discard the two copper crush washers. Immediately cap or plug the brake line to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
   ⚠Use a flare nut wrench to prevent rounding off the brake line fitting. Do not use standard open-end wrench.
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper - remove dust boot
   Place caliper on clean workbench with piston facing up. Carefully pry out the dust boot retaining ring using a small flathead screwdriver. Remove and discard the old dust boot. Inspect the boot groove in the caliper bore for damage or corrosion.
   ⚠Take note of how dust boot and seal are oriented before removal for correct reassembly.
4. 4

   Remove caliper piston
   Position caliper over a block of wood to catch piston. Using compressed air, direct short bursts of air into the brake fluid inlet port to push the piston out. If compressed air is unavailable, use a wooden dowel to carefully tap piston out from the back side. Do not use excessive force. If piston is seized, soak with penetrating oil and retry, or replace entire caliper.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of piston path. Compressed air can eject piston with significant force causing injury.
   ⚠Never use metal tools directly against the piston as this will damage the chrome plating and ruin the piston.
5. 5

   Remove piston seal
   Using a plastic pick or wooden dowel, carefully pry the rubber piston seal out of its groove inside the caliper bore. Do not use metal tools that could scratch the bore. Discard old seal. Inspect bore carefully for scoring, pitting, or corrosion - any damage requires caliper replacement.
   ⚠The caliper bore must be perfectly smooth. Even minor scratches will cause seal failure and brake fluid leaks.
6. 6

   Clean all components
   Thoroughly clean caliper bore, piston, and all caliper passages using brake cleaner and lint-free rags. Use wire brush on external surfaces to remove rust and debris. Clean the slide pin bores in the caliper bracket. Blow out all passages with compressed air. Inspect new piston from rebuild kit - it should be free of defects with smooth chrome surface.
   ℹ️Do not use petroleum-based solvents or lubricants anywhere in the brake system - only brake-specific cleaners and approved brake grease.
7. 7

   Install new piston seal
   Dip new piston seal from rebuild kit in clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Carefully work the seal into the groove in the caliper bore using only your fingers. Ensure seal is seated evenly all the way around with no twists or folds. The seal should sit completely in its groove.
   ⚠Do not stretch or deform the seal during installation. A twisted or improperly seated seal will cause brake fluid leaks.
8. 8

   Install piston
   Coat new piston (or cleaned original if in perfect condition) with clean brake fluid. Coat the bore and seal with brake fluid. Carefully align piston with bore and start it straight into the bore by hand. Push piston in slowly, ensuring it does not cock to one side. Press piston in until it bottoms in the bore - it should slide smoothly with moderate pressure.
   ⚠Piston must enter bore perfectly straight. Forcing a cocked piston will damage the seal and bore.
9. 9

   Install dust boot
   Lubricate new dust boot with brake fluid. Stretch boot over the piston and seat the inner lip in the piston groove. Ensure the outer portion of the boot seats properly in the caliper body groove. Install the boot retaining ring, seating it completely in the caliper groove all the way around.
   ℹ️The dust boot must be completely seated with no gaps or it will tear during piston movement.
10. 10

    Service caliper slide pins
    Remove slide pins from caliper bracket. Clean pins and bores thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect pins for corrosion or wear - replace if damaged. Inspect rubber boots for tears - replace if damaged. Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to slide pins. Reinstall pins with boots into bracket, ensuring boots seat properly.
    ℹ️Do not use regular grease on slide pins. Only silicone-based brake grease is compatible with rubber components.
11. 11

    Reconnect brake line and install caliper
    Install caliper onto bracket over brake pads (ensure pads are in correct orientation). Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of banjo fitting. Thread banjo bolt through brake hose and into caliper, tightening by hand first. Tighten banjo bolt to manufacturer specification (typically 25-30 Nm if not listed above). Install and torque caliper slide pin bolts.
    ⚠Always use new copper crush washers. Reused washers will leak brake fluid.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed brake caliper
    Attach clear hose to bleeder screw and route into catch container with small amount of clean brake fluid. Have assistant slowly pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold. Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn, allow fluid and air to evacuate, then close bleeder before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid flows with no air bubbles. Check reservoir level frequently and top off with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
    ⚠️Never allow brake pedal to go to floor with bleeder open, and never let reservoir run dry or you will introduce air into ABS system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Repeat for opposite caliper
    Perform steps 1-12 for the opposite front caliper. Bleed the second caliper using the same procedure. After both calipers are rebuilt and bled, bleed both calipers one more time to ensure all air is purged from the system.
    ℹ️Working on one caliper at a time allows you to reference the other side if questions arise during reassembly.
14. 14

    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower vehicle until wheels just touch ground. Torque lug nuts in star pattern. Lower vehicle completely. Pump brake pedal slowly until pedal becomes firm - this may take 10-15 pumps. Check brake fluid level and top off to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Inspect all connections for leaks.
    ⚠️Brake pedal will go to floor until calipers are pressurized. This is normal but vehicle cannot be moved safely until firm pedal is achieved.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure both calipers have been bled thoroughly with no air bubbles visible
2. Verify brake pedal feels firm and consistent before test driving
3. Check that brake fluid reservoir is at MAX level with fresh DOT 3 fluid
4. Inspect all brake line connections and caliper mounting points for leaks
5. Verify wheel lug nuts are torqued to specification in star pattern

Verification

• Pump brake pedal 15-20 times - pedal should be firm and consistent, not spongy
• Start engine and verify pedal does not sink when held with constant pressure for 30 seconds
• Check for any brake fluid leaks at caliper banjo fittings, bleeder screws, and caliper body
• Perform test drive in safe area at low speed (under 15 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly without pulling
• Perform several moderate brake applications from 25-30 mph to seat pads and verify proper braking
• After test drive, recheck all torque specifications and inspect for leaks
• Allow 200-300 miles for new seals to fully seat and pads to bed in - avoid hard braking during this period
• Recheck brake fluid level after first 50 miles and top off if needed

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