suspension
Lateral Arm
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
11
Steps
13
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lateral arm (also called rear lower control arm) on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla with 1.8L I4 engine.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension at normal ride height. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
⚠If lateral arm is seized to mounting points, do not force removal as this may damage subframe threads or mounting points.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
19mm socketEssential
21mm socketEssential
17mm wrenchEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar
Rubber mallet
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Parts
- Rear lateral arm (lower control arm) × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent
- Control arm mounting bolts × 2 — Reuse if threads are clean and undamaged
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Chock front wheels securely
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points on chassis
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Apply penetrating oil to all control arm bolts and ball joint nut if corrosion is visible
- Inspect lateral arm bushings and ball joint for wear or damage to confirm replacement is necessary
Procedure
- 1Support the rear knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle or lower portion of the rear strut assembly. Raise jack just enough to support the weight and take load off the lateral arm. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the arm is disconnected.
- 2Remove the ball joint nutLocate the ball joint connection at the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin if equipped. Using a 19mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut connecting the lateral arm to the rear knuckle. Keep the nut for comparison with replacement hardware.ℹ️Some model years use a castle nut with cotter pin, others use a prevailing torque nut without cotter pin.
- 3Separate the ball joint from the knuckleUse a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork to separate the lateral arm ball joint from the rear knuckle. If using a pickle fork, be aware this may damage the ball joint boot. Alternatively, tap the knuckle boss area with a hammer while applying light prying pressure to release the taper. Do not damage the knuckle threads.
- 4Remove the front mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt that secures the lateral arm to the rear subframe or crossmember. This is typically the forward-most connection point. Using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, remove the bolt completely. The bolt passes through the bushing and subframe bracket. Support the arm as you remove the bolt.⚠This bolt is under tension. Control the arm as the bolt is removed to prevent sudden movement.
- 5Remove the rear mounting boltRemove the rear mounting bolt that secures the lateral arm to the rear subframe bracket. This is typically located toward the center or rear of the vehicle relative to the front bolt. Use a 21mm socket to remove the bolt. Once both bolts are removed, the lateral arm can be maneuvered out of the suspension assembly.
- 6Remove the lateral armCarefully extract the lateral arm from the vehicle. You may need to manipulate the arm angle and use a pry bar to work it past the subframe brackets. Inspect the removed arm for bushing damage, torn boots, and ball joint play to confirm diagnosis.
- 7Prepare mounting pointsClean all mounting bolt holes in the subframe with a wire brush. Remove any corrosion, dirt, or old thread locker. Inspect threads for damage. Clean the ball joint taper seat in the rear knuckle. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to bolt threads unless using new bolts with pre-applied thread locker.
- 8Install the new lateral armPosition the new lateral arm into place. Insert the ball joint stud into the rear knuckle taper first. Hand-thread the ball joint nut to hold the arm in position but do not tighten. Align the bushings with the subframe mounting brackets.
- 9Install mounting bolts finger-tightInsert both front and rear mounting bolts through the bushings and subframe brackets. Thread bolts in by hand to ensure proper alignment. Snug bolts lightly but do NOT torque at this time. The suspension must be at normal ride height before final torquing of control arm bolts.⚠Do not fully tighten control arm mounting bolts until vehicle weight is on suspension. Tightening at full droop will twist and damage bushings.
- 10Torque the ball joint nutUsing a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. If using a castle nut, align the slots with the cotter pin hole and install a new cotter pin. The nut may be tightened further to align slots but never back off the nut. Bend cotter pin ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 11Lower vehicle to load suspensionRemove jack stands and lower the vehicle until the tires contact the ground and suspension is at normal ride height. The vehicle weight must be fully on the wheels. Do not allow vehicle to rest on jack only. This loads the suspension bushings in their normal operating position.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith vehicle weight on suspension at normal ride height, use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque both the front and rear lateral arm mounting bolts to specification. Torque each bolt in a single smooth motion. Verify both bolts are properly torqued.⚠These bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle at ride height. This is critical for bushing longevity.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Reinstall wheel and final torqueRaise the vehicle slightly to remove the floor jack from under the knuckle if still in place. Mount the rear wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification, paying special attention that control arm bolts were torqued at ride height
- Confirm ball joint castle nut is properly secured with cotter pin if applicable
- Remove all tools and jack stands from under vehicle
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no abnormal noises from rear suspension
- Perform a visual inspection under the vehicle to confirm no loose fasteners or contact between components
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment as replacement of the lateral arm will affect rear toe and camber settings
- Re-check all torque specifications after 50-100 miles of driving