suspension
Lower Control Arm - Rear
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
10
This procedure covers removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla with 1.8L I4 engine, including proper torque sequence for suspension components.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Torquing while suspended can cause premature bushing failure and handling issues.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can damage boots. Use care when separating the ball joint from the knuckle.
⚠Suspension components are under tension. Control arm may shift when bolts are removed.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack stands (2)Essential
Torque wrench (20-180 Nm range)Essential
19mm socketEssential
17mm socketEssential
14mm socketEssential
Breaker barEssential
Ball joint separator (fork or pickle fork)Essential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Rear lower control arm × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Ball joint castle nut (if applicable) × 1 — Use OEM specification
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer specified jacking points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Spray control arm bolts and ball joint nut with penetrating oil if rusty, allow 10-15 minutes to soak
Procedure
- 1Support rear suspensionPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle or lower control arm to support the suspension assembly. Raise jack slightly to take load off the control arm but do not lift the vehicle. This prevents the suspension from dropping when components are disconnected.
- 2Disconnect ball joint from knuckleRemove the ball joint castle nut from the lower control arm ball joint stud where it connects to the rear knuckle. Use a 17mm socket to remove the nut completely. Insert a ball joint separator between the control arm and knuckle, then strike with a hammer or use a threaded separator to pop the ball joint taper from the knuckle. Remove the separator tool.⚠The ball joint may release suddenly when the taper breaks free. Keep hands clear of pinch points.
- 3Remove rear control arm to subframe boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the rear subframe or chassis. This is typically a 19mm bolt. Use a breaker bar to loosen and remove this bolt completely. Support the control arm as you remove the bolt to prevent it from dropping.ℹ️On some model years, the rear bolt may be accessed more easily from underneath. The bolt passes through a bushing in the control arm.
- 4Remove front control arm to subframe boltLocate the front mounting bolt that connects the control arm to the rear subframe or chassis. This is typically a 19mm bolt. Use a breaker bar to loosen and remove this bolt completely. The control arm is now free and can be removed from the vehicle.
- 5Inspect and clean mounting pointsWith the control arm removed, inspect the ball joint mounting hole in the knuckle for damage or elongation. Use a wire brush to clean the bolt holes in the subframe and remove any rust or debris. Inspect the threads on both bolts and replace if damaged. Check that the new control arm bushings are properly seated and not damaged.
- 6Install new control armPosition the new lower control arm into place. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle hole first, then align the control arm with the subframe mounting points. Thread the new ball joint nut onto the ball joint stud by hand. Insert both front and rear control arm mounting bolts through the subframe and bushings, threading nuts on by hand but do not tighten yet.ℹ️Control arm bolts must NOT be torqued until vehicle weight is on the wheels. Only hand tighten at this stage.
- 7Torque ball joint nutUsing a torque wrench with 17mm socket, torque the ball joint castle nut to specification. If the control arm has a castle nut with cotter pin, ensure torque is achieved and cotter pin holes align. If holes do not align, tighten (do not loosen) up to 1/6 turn additional until holes align, then install new cotter pin.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 8Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the rear wheel onto the hub and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle to the ground so that the full weight of the vehicle is resting on all four wheels. Do not fully torque lug nuts yet as the vehicle may need to be rolled.
- 9Torque control arm bolts with weight on wheelsWith the vehicle on the ground and suspension at normal ride height, use a torque wrench to torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This is critical - torquing these bolts while the suspension is hanging will pre-load the bushings incorrectly and cause premature failure.⚠️Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at normal ride height with vehicle weight on wheels. Failure to do so will cause bushing damage.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 10Final torque wheel lug nutsUsing a torque wrench, tighten the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern to ensure even seating of the wheel against the hub.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification and no tools or parts are left under the vehicle
- If a cotter pin was used on the ball joint, verify it is properly installed and spread
- Remove wheel chocks and lower jack stands
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no unusual noises from the rear suspension
- Perform a visual inspection underneath to confirm no interference between control arm and other components
- Check for proper wheel alignment - vehicle should track straight. A professional alignment is recommended after control arm replacement
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving