steering
Tie Rod End - Outer
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
11
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla, requiring an alignment after completion.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be supported securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠A front end alignment is mandatory after this repair. Driving with improper alignment can cause tire wear and handling issues.
⚠Do not strike the tie rod threads with a hammer as this will damage the threads and prevent proper installation.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (30-150 Nm range)Essential
19mm socketEssential
17mm wrenchEssential
21mm wrenchEssential
Tie rod end separator or pickle forkEssential
Needle nose pliers (for cotter pin removal)Essential
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Paint marker or tape measureEssential
Ball joint separator
Parts
- Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Cotter pin × 1 — 90179-04127 or equivalent
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at the frame jacking points
- Remove wheel completely
- Spray penetrating oil on tie rod lock nut and castle nut threads, allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
Procedure
- 1Remove cotter pin from castle nutLocate the castle nut on the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten the cotter pin legs with needle nose pliers, then pull the cotter pin completely out and discard it. Clean any rust or debris from the castle nut.
- 2Mark tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, use a paint marker to mark the exact position where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod. Count and record the number of visible threads. This reference mark will help maintain approximate alignment during installation and minimize post-repair alignment adjustments.
- 3Loosen tie rod lock nutUsing a 17mm wrench, loosen the lock nut that secures the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Do not remove it completely yet - back it off several turns until it is against the outer tie rod end body. This nut is located on the threaded shaft between the inner and outer tie rod ends.
- 4Remove castle nutUsing a 19mm socket, remove the castle nut from the tie rod end ball stud where it connects to the steering knuckle. Remove the nut completely and set aside.
- 5Separate tie rod end from knuckleInstall a tie rod end separator or pickle fork between the tie rod end and steering knuckle. Strike the separator tool firmly with a hammer to pop the ball stud taper free from the knuckle. Alternatively, use a ball joint separator tool. Once separated, pull the tie rod end ball stud completely out of the knuckle.
- 6Remove outer tie rod endHold the inner tie rod with a 21mm wrench to prevent it from spinning. Unscrew the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand, counting the number of turns. The lock nut will slide along with it. Remove both the outer tie rod end and lock nut completely.
- 7Clean threads and install new tie rod endClean the threads on the inner tie rod with a wire brush. Thread the lock nut onto the new outer tie rod end first (it should slide freely along the shaft). Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the inner tie rod threads. Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod clockwise, using the same number of turns counted during removal and aligning with your reference mark.
- 8Install tie rod end into knuckleInsert the ball stud of the new outer tie rod end into the steering knuckle hole. Ensure the stud is fully seated and the taper is properly engaged. Thread the castle nut onto the ball stud by hand first, then tighten to specification using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Install new cotter pinAlign the castle nut slots with the hole in the ball stud. If necessary, tighten the castle nut slightly (do not loosen) until the slots align with the hole. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the legs in opposite directions to secure it. Ensure the cotter pin cannot come loose.
- 10Reinstall wheelPosition the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
- 11Final tightening and alignment preparationLower the vehicle completely to the ground. Do not tighten the tie rod lock nut yet. Note that the lock nut must only be torqued to specification AFTER the vehicle has been professionally aligned. Mark the vehicle for immediate alignment service.
Reassembly
- After professional alignment is completed, torque the tie rod lock nut to 64 Nm (48 lb-ft) while holding the inner tie rod with a 21mm wrench
- Verify the cotter pin is properly installed and secure
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area to verify proper steering operation before normal use
Verification
- Verify the outer tie rod end ball stud moves freely without binding when the steering wheel is turned
- Check that the cotter pin is properly installed and secure
- Confirm there is no play or looseness in the tie rod connection by attempting to move the tie rod end by hand with the wheel on the ground
- Schedule and complete a professional front end alignment immediately - verify toe, camber, and caster are within specification
- After alignment, verify the tie rod lock nut has been torqued to 64 Nm (48 lb-ft)
- Test drive and verify steering feels normal with no pulling or unusual feedback