suspension
Upper Control Arm - Front
for 2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8L I4 · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
12
Steps
13
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the front upper control arm on a 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla with a 1.8L I4 engine.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠Ball joint separator tools can slip under load. Keep hands and face clear when applying pressure.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the suspension. Torquing with suspension hanging can cause premature bushing failure.
ℹ️Alignment should be checked after control arm replacement as camber and caster may be affected.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
21mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
19mm socket (ball joint nut)Essential
17mm socket (control arm bolts)Essential
Torque wrenchEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
Breaker bar
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Pry bar
Parts
- Front upper control arm assembly × 1 — 48068-02100 (Left) or 48069-02100 (Right)
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if cotter pin hole damaged
- Cotter pin × 1 — Replace during reassembly
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and apply parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on ground
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified lift points
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
- Spray ball joint nut and control arm mounting bolts with penetrating oil if corrosion is present
Procedure
- 1Remove ball joint cotter pinLocate the upper control arm ball joint where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the ball joint stud. Discard the old cotter pin as it should not be reused.
- 2Loosen ball joint castle nutUsing a 19mm socket, loosen but do not completely remove the ball joint castle nut. Leave the nut threaded on a few turns to prevent the control arm from dropping suddenly when the ball joint separates.
- 3Separate ball joint from knucklePosition a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the control arm and steering knuckle. Strike or apply pressure to separate the ball joint taper from the knuckle. Once separated, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.⚠A pickle fork will damage the ball joint boot. Use only if replacing the control arm assembly.
- 4Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front control arm mounting bolt that attaches the control arm to the frame or subframe. Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar if needed, remove the front mounting bolt completely. Support the control arm to prevent it from hanging on the rear bolt.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltRemove the rear control arm mounting bolt using a 17mm socket. The control arm can now be removed from the vehicle. Note the orientation and positioning of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
- 6Clean mounting surfacesUse a wire brush to clean the mounting bolt holes in the frame and remove any rust, dirt, or debris. Clean the ball joint taper seat in the steering knuckle with a wire brush or clean rag. Inspect all mounting points for damage or excessive corrosion.
- 7Install new upper control armPosition the new upper control arm into the mounting brackets on the frame. Insert both mounting bolts but do not tighten them yet. The control arm bushings must be torqued with the vehicle at normal ride height to prevent premature bushing failure. Thread the bolts in enough to hold the control arm in position.
- 8Connect ball joint to knuckleLift the control arm ball joint stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar or jack to align the holes. Thread the castle nut onto the ball joint stud by hand, then tighten with a 19mm socket to the specified torque.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 9Install new cotter pinAlign the castle nut slots with the hole in the ball joint stud. If needed, tighten the nut slightly more to align the slots - never loosen to align. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends to secure it properly.
- 10Reinstall wheelMount the wheel onto the hub and thread the lug nuts on by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with a hand wrench, but do not torque to final specification yet.
- 11Lower vehicle to load suspensionCarefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the suspension is loaded with the vehicle's weight on the wheels, but keep the jack partially supporting the vehicle for safety. The suspension must be at normal ride height before torquing the control arm mounting bolts.
- 12Torque control arm mounting boltsWith the vehicle weight on the suspension, torque both control arm mounting bolts to specification using a 17mm socket and torque wrench. Torque the front bolt first, then the rear bolt. This ensures the bushings are not pre-loaded in a twisted position.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final wheel installationRaise the vehicle completely, remove jack stands, and lower the vehicle fully to the ground. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification before driving
- Control arm mounting bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension
- New cotter pin must be properly installed and secured
- Verify ball joint has full range of motion without binding
Verification
- Verify all bolts are torqued to specification including ball joint nut, control arm bolts, and wheel lug nuts
- Check that cotter pin is properly installed and secured in ball joint castle nut
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no abnormal noises from front suspension
- Schedule a front-end alignment to ensure proper camber and caster settings
- Re-check all fastener torques after 50-100 miles of driving