This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins Diesel engine, including brake fluid line disconnection, caliper removal, installation, and brake system bleeding.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake line copper crush washers × 2 — Use OEM Mopar specification
• Caliper mounting bolt kit (if corroded) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Chock front wheels securely on both sides
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
4. Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack at recommended lift points on frame
5. Install jack stands under frame rails rated for vehicle weight - never work under vehicle supported only by jack
6. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly completely
7. Place drip pan under brake caliper area to catch brake fluid
8. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and use turkey baster or pump to remove approximately half the brake fluid to prevent overflow when compressing caliper piston
9. Inspect brake rotor, pads, and surrounding components for additional wear or damage that may need attention

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect brake fluid line from caliper
   Using a flare nut wrench (11mm), carefully loosen and remove the brake line banjo bolt from the rear of the caliper. Be prepared for brake fluid to drain. Remove the banjo bolt completely and immediately plug the brake line with a rubber cap or clean rag to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Discard the old copper crush washers - these must be replaced with new washers during reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper mounting bolts on the rear side of the caliper bracket. These are large 18mm bolts. If bolts are corroded, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak for several minutes. Using an 18mm socket and ratchet, remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Support the caliper with your hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
   ⚠Caliper is heavy (approximately 15-20 lbs). Be prepared to support its weight when removing final mounting bolt.
3. 3

   Remove caliper assembly
   Carefully slide the caliper assembly off the brake rotor and brake pads. Lift the caliper away from the mounting bracket. Inspect the caliper mounting bracket, slide pins, and hardware for damage or excessive wear. If only replacing the caliper and not the bracket, clean the bracket mounting surfaces thoroughly with a wire brush.
4. 4

   Prepare new caliper for installation
   Remove the new caliper from packaging and inspect for shipping damage. Remove any protective caps or plugs from the brake line port. If the new caliper has a shipping bracket or piston retainer, remove according to manufacturer instructions. Verify the caliper piston is fully retracted - if not, carefully compress it using a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool. Ensure the caliper orientation matches the old unit (bleeder screw should be at the top when installed).
5. 5

   Install new caliper onto bracket
   Position the new caliper over the brake rotor and align with the mounting bracket. The caliper must slide fully onto the mounting bracket with the bolt holes aligned. Insert both caliper mounting bolts by hand and thread in several turns to ensure proper thread engagement. Verify bleeder screw is positioned at the highest point of the caliper for proper bleeding.
6. 6

   Torque caliper mounting bolts
   Using a torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten both caliper mounting bolts to specification. Tighten in a crisscross pattern - partially tighten one bolt, then the other, then return to torque both to final specification. This ensures even clamping force and proper caliper alignment on the mounting bracket.
   ⚠️Proper torque is CRITICAL for brake caliper safety. Under-torquing can allow caliper to loosen and fail. Over-torquing can strip threads or break bolts. Use calibrated torque wrench.
7. 7

   Connect brake line to new caliper
   Install NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the brake line banjo fitting - one washer against the caliper body and one under the banjo bolt head. Position the brake line banjo fitting into the caliper port. Thread the banjo bolt by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench and appropriate socket, tighten the banjo bolt to specification. Do not reuse old copper washers as they will not seal properly.
   ⚠️New copper crush washers are MANDATORY. Reused washers will leak brake fluid causing brake failure. Verify washers are in place before tightening.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Bleed rear brake caliper
   Refill master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid. Attach clear plastic tubing to the caliper bleeder screw and place other end in a clean container. Have an assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Using a 10mm wrench or bleeder wrench, open bleeder screw 1/2 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure. Close bleeder screw before pedal reaches floor. Repeat process until fluid flows with no air bubbles. Check and refill master cylinder frequently during bleeding process.
   ⚠Never allow master cylinder to run dry during bleeding as this introduces air into ABS system requiring special scan tool bleeding procedures.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Final bleeder screw torque and inspection
   After bleeding is complete and fluid flows clear without bubbles, close the bleeder screw and torque to specification using a torque wrench. Wipe away any spilled brake fluid from caliper and surrounding components immediately. Inspect all connections for leaks, particularly the brake line banjo bolt connection. Top off master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid and reinstall reservoir cap.
   ⚠Bleeder screws are easily stripped or broken if overtightened. Use torque wrench and do not exceed specification.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and perform brake test
    Clean wheel mounting surface on hub with wire brush to ensure proper seating. Install wheel onto hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Using a torque wrench in a star pattern, tighten lug nuts to specification. Lower vehicle carefully from jack stands and remove stands. With vehicle still elevated on jack, perform final lug nut torque verification. Lower vehicle completely to ground.

Reassembly

1. If replacing calipers on both rear wheels, repeat entire procedure for opposite side
2. Verify master cylinder fluid level is at MAX line after all bleeding operations are complete
3. Dispose of old brake fluid properly - it is hazardous waste and cannot be poured down drains
4. Old copper crush washers and caliper should be disposed of according to local regulations

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal firmly 10-15 times - pedal should become firm and hold pressure without slowly sinking
• Start engine and verify brake pedal does not sink when firm pressure is applied
• Inspect all brake line connections and caliper bleeder screw for any signs of fluid leakage
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area - brakes should engage smoothly without pulling to one side
• Test brake pedal feel at various pressures - should be firm with good resistance throughout pedal travel
• Perform several moderate stops from 30-40 mph in a safe area to verify proper brake operation and seat new components
• Re-check master cylinder fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after driving 50-100 miles to verify proper seating
• If brake pedal feels soft or spongy, or if vehicle pulls during braking, repeat bleeding procedure or consult professional technician immediately

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