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2014 RAM 2500

6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel4WDAUTOMATICdieselturbo
16 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Repairs450Labor566Torque3843Fluid9DTC789Battery1Maintenance0Recalls16
brakes

Brake Pads - Front

for 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L I6 Cummins Diesel · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.3 h
Tools
12
Steps
13

Replace front brake pads on a 2014 Ram 2500 with 6.7L Cummins Diesel engine, including caliper service and proper torque specifications.

Warnings

⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL PROCEDURE: Improperly installed brake components can result in complete brake failure, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands. This vehicle weighs over 7000 lbs.
⚠️All caliper and bracket bolts MUST be torqued to exact specifications. Under-torqued fasteners can allow the caliper to detach during braking.
Brake dust may contain asbestos or harmful materials. Do not blow off with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and wipe clean with disposable towels.
Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and toxic. Avoid skin contact and immediately wash any spills on vehicle surfaces.
ℹ️The master cylinder reservoir will overflow when compressing caliper pistons. Remove some fluid before starting or be prepared to extract excess fluid during the procedure.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands rated for 8000+ lbsEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 lb-ft range)Essential
19mm or 21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Large C-clamp or brake caliper piston toolEssential
Socket set (metric)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Wire brush
Brake cleanerEssential
High-temperature brake caliper greaseEssential
Turkey baster or fluid pump
Wheel chocksEssential
Drain pan

Parts

  • Front brake pad set (left and right) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
  • Brake hardware kit (clips and springs) × 1 — Often included with pad set
  • Brake cleaner spray × 1 — Non-chlorinated recommended

Fluids

  • Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place transmission in Park. Engage parking brake.
  2. Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels.
  3. Using turkey baster or fluid pump, remove approximately 1/4 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing pistons.
  4. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground (do not remove).
  5. Lift front of vehicle with floor jack at manufacturer-designated lift points and secure on jack stands rated for vehicle weight.
  6. Remove front wheels completely and set aside.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect brake system condition
    Before proceeding, inspect rotors for excessive wear, deep grooves, or heat damage. Check brake hoses for cracks or bulging. Verify rotor thickness is above minimum specification (typically stamped on rotor). If rotors require replacement or resurfacing, this procedure must be expanded. Check that brake fluid level in reservoir is adequate but not overfilled.
  2. 2
    Remove caliper slide bolts
    Locate the caliper slide bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly. On this model, these are typically the lower and upper bolts that allow the caliper to pivot. Clean any dirt around the bolt heads. Using appropriate socket (typically 13mm or 14mm), remove both caliper slide bolts completely. Support the caliper with your hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling.
  3. 3
    Remove caliper from bracket
    Carefully pivot or lift the caliper assembly off the brake rotor and bracket. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose as this can damage the hose internally. Support the caliper by hanging it from the suspension or frame using a wire coat hanger, bungee cord, or zip ties. Ensure there is no tension on the brake hose.
    Never allow the brake caliper to hang by the rubber brake hose. This can cause internal hose damage leading to brake failure.
  4. 4
    Remove old brake pads
    Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the position and orientation of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or hardware. Take a photo with your phone if needed for reference during reassembly. The outer pad may be clipped to the caliper itself. Remove any hardware clips from the bracket for cleaning or replacement.
  5. 5
    Clean caliper bracket and hardware
    Using brake cleaner and a wire brush, thoroughly clean the caliper bracket where the pads slide, removing all rust, old grease, and debris. Clean the brake hardware clips. Inspect the slide pins (bolts you removed) and their rubber boots for damage, tears, or excessive wear. If boots are damaged, they must be replaced to prevent moisture and debris from seizing the pins.
  6. 6
    Compress caliper pistons
    Using a large C-clamp or brake caliper piston compression tool, slowly compress the caliper piston(s) back into the caliper bore. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and a flat surface on the piston face (an old brake pad works well as a cushion). Compress slowly and evenly. Watch the master cylinder reservoir - if it begins to overflow, stop and remove more fluid. The piston must be fully compressed to allow clearance for the thicker new pads.
    Monitor the brake fluid reservoir during piston compression. If it overflows, brake fluid will spill onto engine components and paint.
  7. 7
    Install new brake hardware
    If your brake pad set includes new hardware clips and anti-rattle springs, remove the old hardware and install the new pieces in the same positions. Ensure clips are fully seated in the bracket grooves. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact points on the bracket (where the pad backing plates slide), but keep grease away from the rotor surface and friction material.
  8. 8
    Install new brake pads
    Install the new brake pads into the caliper bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the hardware clips. The friction material faces the rotor. Typically, there is an inner pad (toward the vehicle) and an outer pad (toward the wheel). Some pads have wear indicators (metal tabs) that should be positioned according to manufacturer instructions, usually at the leading edge of rotation at the top of the pad.
  9. 9
    Lubricate and prepare caliper slide pins
    Remove the caliper slide bolts completely if not already done. Clean the smooth shaft portion of each bolt thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe dry. Inspect the rubber boots on the caliper bracket for tears or damage. Apply a generous coating of high-temperature brake caliper grease to the smooth sliding portion of each pin (NOT the threaded portion). This lubrication is critical for proper caliper operation and even pad wear.
    ℹ️Proper slide pin lubrication is essential for even brake pad wear and proper brake function. Use only high-temperature brake-specific grease.
  10. 10
    Reinstall caliper and torque slide bolts
    Carefully position the caliper back over the new brake pads and onto the bracket. Align the slide pin bolt holes. Insert both caliper slide bolts and thread them in by hand initially to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench, tighten the caliper slide bolts to exactly 46 Nm (34 lb-ft) in a criss-cross pattern if applicable, or torque each bolt to specification.
    ⚠️Caliper slide bolts MUST be torqued to the specified 34 lb-ft. Incorrect torque can result in caliper failure and loss of braking.
  11. 11
    Repeat procedure on opposite side
    Perform the entire brake pad replacement procedure (steps 1-10) on the opposite front wheel. Both front brake pads should always be replaced as a pair to ensure even braking performance.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
    Clean the wheel hub mounting surface of any rust or debris. Reinstall the front wheels, threading lug nuts on by hand first. Lower the vehicle until the wheels just contact the ground (still partially supported by jack). Using a torque wrench and star/cross pattern, torque the lug nuts to the specified value. Note: Some 2500 models use 130 lb-ft and others use 140 lb-ft - verify for your specific wheel configuration. After final torque, fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands.
    ⚠️Lug nuts MUST be torqued in a star pattern to specification. Improper torque can cause wheel detachment.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Restore brake pedal and check fluid
    With vehicle on the ground and engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly 10-15 times until the pedal becomes firm and returns to normal height. The first few pumps will feel soft as the caliper pistons extend to contact the new pads. Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off with Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid to the MAX line if needed. Install reservoir cap.
    ⚠️Do NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until the brake pedal has been pumped to restore pedal pressure. Failure to do this will result in no brakes on first application.

Reassembly

  1. Verify all tools and parts have been removed from wheel wells and under vehicle.
  2. Double-check that both front wheels have been reinstalled and lug nuts torqued properly.
  3. Confirm brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX marks on reservoir.
  4. After torquing lug nuts with vehicle on ground, recheck torque after first 50-100 miles of driving.

Verification

  • Start engine and pump brake pedal several times. Pedal should feel firm and not sink to the floor.
  • With engine running, press brake pedal firmly - it should not slowly sink. If it does, there may be air in the system requiring bleeding.
  • Perform a low-speed test (5-10 mph) in a safe area to verify brakes engage properly without pulling to one side.
  • Check for any brake fluid leaks around calipers, hoses, and master cylinder.
  • Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications (light squeaking during the first few stops is normal as pads seat).
  • Test drive at various speeds, verifying smooth brake operation and no vibration or pulsation.
  • After first test drive, recheck all caliper slide bolt torque and lug nut torque.
  • Be aware that new brake pads require a break-in period of 200-300 miles for optimal performance. Avoid hard braking during this period if possible.

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