Complete rebuild of front brake calipers including disassembly, cleaning, replacement of internal seals and components, reassembly, and bleeding of the brake system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper rebuild kit (includes pistons, seals, dust boots, hardware) × 2 — Use OEM Mopar or quality aftermarket for both calipers
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) × 1 — Silicone brake grease, non-petroleum
• Brake cleaner spray × 1 — Non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner

Fluids

• Mopar DOT 4 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly
2. Chock rear wheels securely
3. Using turkey baster or fluid pump, remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing pistons
4. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
5. Lift front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight (minimum 8,000 lbs capacity)
6. Remove front wheels completely
7. Verify calipers are cool to touch before beginning work
8. Have all rebuild kit components laid out and organized before disassembly

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper from bracket
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear of the caliper body. Using a 18mm socket, remove both slide pin bolts. Carefully lift caliper off rotor and suspend from frame using wire or zip tie - never let caliper hang by brake hose. Mark caliper orientation for reassembly reference.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose from caliper
   Place drain pan beneath caliper. Using 10mm wrench, loosen and remove brake hose banjo bolt from caliper body. Remove and discard copper crush washers (new washers should be included in rebuild kit). Immediately plug brake hose opening with clean rubber cap or tape to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Allow caliper to drain completely into pan.
3. 3

   Disassemble caliper and remove pistons
   Place caliper on clean workbench with piston side up. Remove dust boot retaining rings if present. If using compressed air method: Place a block of wood inside caliper to limit piston travel, then apply low pressure compressed air (max 30 PSI) to brake fluid inlet to push pistons out. If using manual method: Use large C-clamp or channel locks with protective cloth to carefully work pistons out by hand. Remove and discard all dust boots.
   ⚠️Never place fingers in front of pistons during air pressure removal. Pistons can eject with enough force to break bones.
   ⚠Work in a controlled manner - pistons may come out suddenly.
4. 4

   Remove internal piston seals
   Using a plastic seal pick (never use metal tools), carefully pry out the square-cut piston seals from their grooves in the caliper bore. Inspect caliper bores closely for scoring, pitting, or corrosion. Minor staining is acceptable, but any scoring or deep pitting requires caliper replacement - do not attempt to rebuild damaged bores.
   ⚠Do not use metal picks or screwdrivers as they will scratch and damage the caliper bore, requiring replacement.
5. 5

   Clean caliper components thoroughly
   Spray all caliper internal bores, passages, and external surfaces with brake parts cleaner. Use wire brush on external surfaces only - never brush internal bores. Clean bleeder screw threads and passages. Wipe all surfaces with clean, lint-free rags. Inspect bleeder screws and replace if damaged or corroded. Allow all components to air dry completely before assembly.
6. 6

   Lubricate and install new piston seals
   Dip new piston seals in clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Carefully work seals into caliper bore grooves using fingers only - ensure seals are seated evenly in grooves all the way around with no twists or folds. Verify seals are fully seated below the groove surface.
   ⚠Seals must be installed with no twists or folds. Improper seal installation will cause brake fluid leaks and brake failure.
7. 7

   Install pistons and dust boots
   Coat new pistons (or cleaned original pistons if in perfect condition) liberally with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Carefully insert pistons into bores, pressing straight in by hand. Install new dust boots over pistons and seat into caliper body grooves. If dust boots have metal retaining rings, ensure rings are fully seated. Push pistons fully into bores to allow clearance for rotor installation.
8. 8

   Reinstall brake hose to caliper
   Install NEW copper crush washers (one on each side of hose fitting) onto brake hose banjo fitting. Thread banjo bolt through hose and into caliper body. Ensure hose is not twisted. Tighten banjo bolt to 27-30 Nm (20-22 lb-ft) - do not overtighten as this can damage the soft copper washers and cause leaks.
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper onto bracket
   Remove old grease from caliper slide pins and bracket pin bores using brake cleaner. Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to slide pins (full length that contacts bracket). Position caliper over rotor and align with bracket mounting points. Install slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Verify caliper slides freely on pins before proceeding.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Bleed front brake caliper
    Attach clear hose to bleeder screw and submerge other end in container with clean DOT 4 brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder screw 1/4 turn while assistant maintains pedal pressure - fluid and air will flow into container. Close bleeder screw before pedal reaches floor. Repeat process until no air bubbles appear in fluid stream and only clear fluid flows. Tighten bleeder screw to specification.
    ⚠Never allow brake pedal to go to floor during bleeding or allow master cylinder to run dry. This can damage master cylinder and introduce air into ABS system.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Repeat procedure on opposite side
    Complete steps 1-10 for the opposite front caliper. Maintain proper bleeding sequence: bleed the caliper farthest from master cylinder first, then the closest. For this vehicle, typical sequence is right rear, left rear, right front, left front - but since only fronts are being rebuilt, bleed right front then left front.
12. 12

    Final brake system bleeding and fluid level check
    After both calipers are rebuilt and individually bled, perform final system bleed following the complete vehicle sequence if necessary. Top off master cylinder reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid. Install reservoir cap. Pump brake pedal multiple times - pedal should become firm within 3-4 pumps. Check all connections for leaks.
13. 13

    Reinstall wheels and perform final torque
    Install front wheels onto hubs. Thread lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Using torque wrench, tighten lug nuts in star pattern to specification. Lower vehicle to ground and perform final lug nut torque verification in star pattern with vehicle weight on wheels.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify master cylinder reservoir is at MAX line with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid
2. Check for any brake fluid leaks at caliper hose connections and bleeder screws
3. Ensure all bleeder screws are tightened to specification
4. Confirm caliper slide pins are properly lubricated with silicone brake grease
5. Verify all slide pin bolts are torqued correctly and calipers move freely on brackets

Verification

• With engine off, pump brake pedal several times - pedal should be firm and not sink to floor
• Start engine and verify brake pedal height does not drop significantly
• Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir - should be at MAX line
• Perform careful test drive in safe area at low speeds (under 15 mph) to verify brakes engage smoothly and evenly without pulling
• After test drive, recheck all caliper connections for leaks and retorque wheel lug nuts
• Before returning vehicle to normal service, perform multiple brake applications from 30-40 mph to seat pads and verify proper operation
• Inspect for any fluid leaks after first 50-100 miles of driving
• WARNING: Brake pedal feel and stopping distances may be different than before rebuild. Drive cautiously until fully familiar with brake response

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