Replacement of the rear subframe (cradle) bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. This is a heavy chassis job requiring the rear subframe to be lowered or fully removed; alignment will be required afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Subframe bushings (rear cradle) × 4 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear subframe bushing set — refer to VIN
• Subframe-to-body mounting bolts (single-use, if specified by Tesla) × 4 — Manufacturer-specified torque-to-yield fasteners — replace if marked single-use
• Cotter pin(s) for ball joint nut × 2 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or low-voltage lithium) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the LV battery may be located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor — verify location before cutting power, and isolate the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting, to disable air suspension self-leveling logic and ride-height calibration (note: 2024 Model 3 is coil-only, but Jack Mode still disables certain ABS/dynamics).
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle on a lift using Tesla-approved lift points only (reinforced jack pad locations on the rocker — do not lift on the HV battery case).
9. Remove rear wheels.
10. Remove rear underbody aero panels/diffuser to expose the subframe.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document and mark reference positions
   Before disturbing anything, mark the position of the subframe relative to the body using a paint pen at all four mounting points. Mark camber/toe eccentric bolt positions on the rear control arms so suspension geometry can be approximated on reassembly. Photograph all routing of brake lines, ABS sensor wiring, parking brake harness, and any wiring clipped to the subframe.
2. 2

   Disconnect rear suspension links from the subframe
   Disconnect the sway bar end links from the sway bar (hold the shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut). Disconnect the sway bar from the subframe if it is subframe-mounted. Disconnect the lower control arm inboard bolts and the toe/camber link inboard bolts at the subframe. Support the rear knuckle/hub assemblies so they do not hang on the brake hose or ABS wiring.
   ⚠Do not let the rear knuckle hang by the brake hose — secure with a bungee or stand.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect ball joint(s) and any harnesses routed on the subframe
   If the procedure requires separating the lower ball joint to free the knuckle, remove the cotter pin and ball joint nut and separate using a ball joint press (not a pickle fork — fork damages aluminum knuckles). Unclip ABS sensor harnesses, parking brake actuator wiring, and any ground straps that route across the subframe. DO NOT disconnect any orange HV connector or any high-voltage cable feeding the rear drive unit.
   ⚠️If a connector or cable is orange, STOP. That circuit is HV and out of scope for this procedure.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the rear subframe and drive unit
   Position a powertrain jack or wide subframe support cradle under the rear subframe so the load is balanced front-to-rear. The rear drive unit is mounted to this subframe and adds significant weight — do not use a single-point bottle jack. Snug the support firmly against the subframe before removing any mounting bolts.
   ⚠Subframe + drive unit assembly is heavy and top-heavy. A two-person spot is recommended when lowering.
5. 5

   Remove subframe-to-body mounting bolts
   Loosen the four subframe mounting bolts evenly in a cross pattern, but do not fully remove yet. Once all four are broken loose and threads are confirmed free, slowly remove the bolts while watching the subframe for any unexpected movement. Inspect each bolt — Tesla specifies single-use torque-to-yield bolts for some chassis fasteners; replace any that are marked or specified as single-use per the Tesla Service Manual.
6. 6

   Lower the subframe enough to access bushings
   Slowly and evenly lower the powertrain jack. You only need enough drop to expose the bushing pockets — typically a few inches. Watch clearance on coolant lines, HV cables, and the rear drive unit harness as you lower. If anything goes taut, STOP and re-route or stop the drop. Do NOT disconnect HV cables or drive unit coolant lines to gain clearance — if more clearance is needed than safe, that escalates to a dealer/certified procedure.
   ⚠️If orange HV cable bundles begin to stretch or pull on their grommets, STOP lowering immediately.
7. 7

   Press out old subframe bushings
   Using a hydraulic press or an in-vehicle bushing R&R tool kit appropriate for the Model 3 rear subframe, press out each old bushing. Note the orientation and depth of each bushing before removal — many subframe bushings are directional (voiding/clocking matters for NVH and compliance). Clean the bushing bores thoroughly; inspect for cracks, ovality, or corrosion in the subframe pocket.
   ⚠Do not heat the subframe pockets with an open flame — adjacent body and drive unit components are heat-sensitive.
8. 8

   Install new subframe bushings
   Lubricate the new bushing outer shells with the manufacturer-specified assembly lubricant only (no petroleum grease on rubber). Press in each bushing to the original depth and clocking orientation. Verify the bushing sits flush/recessed exactly as the OEM unit did — incorrect depth changes ride height and geometry.
9. 9

   Raise subframe back into position
   Slowly raise the subframe with the powertrain jack, guiding harnesses and lines back into their original routing. Align the subframe to the paint marks made in Step 1. Start all four mounting bolts by hand to confirm thread engagement — never pull the subframe up using the bolts.
10. 10

    Torque subframe mounting bolts
    Torque the subframe-to-body mounting bolts to the manufacturer-specified value in the cross pattern indicated in the Tesla Service Manual. The verified value in our database for chassis 'Mounting Bolts' is 27 Nm — this is for accessory mounting hardware and is NOT the spec for main subframe-to-body bolts. For the main subframe bolts, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Do not guess.
    ⚠Subframe-to-body bolts are a critical structural fastener. Use only the Tesla Service Manual value, not a generic chassis number.
11. 11

    Reattach suspension links and ball joint
    Reconnect the lower control arm inboard bolts and toe/camber link inboard bolts to the subframe — leave them snug but do NOT final-torque the control arm bolts until vehicle weight is on the wheels. Reattach the ball joint with a NEW cotter pin. Reattach the sway bar and end links.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reattach harnesses, ABS sensors, and ground straps
    Reroute and re-clip every harness exactly as photographed in Step 1, including ABS sensor leads, parking brake harness, and any chassis ground straps. A pinched or rerouted harness here will throw stability/ABS faults on a Tesla.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall rear underbody aero panels and diffuser.
2. Reinstall rear wheels; snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Lower vehicle until tires just contact the ground (loaded suspension).
4. Final-torque the control arm inboard bolts to spec with vehicle weight on the wheels — this preserves bushing preload at ride height.
5. Lower vehicle fully and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
6. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery (negative terminal last).
7. Close all doors, allow the vehicle to wake, and exit Jack/Transport Mode via the touchscreen.

Verification

• After ignition-on, check the touchscreen for any chassis, ABS, traction control, or stability faults. A Model 3 will surface these on the main display — do not road test until cleared.
• Verify parking brake operates correctly (rear EPB calipers cycle when shifting between P and D).
• Perform a four-wheel alignment on an EV-capable rack — Model 3 rear toe and camber are sensitive and must be set to Tesla spec.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps (indicates incorrect bushing clocking or under-torqued subframe bolts).
• Re-check subframe bolt torque after the first 100 miles per common best practice for any subframe R&R.
• Unrelated but worth noting at this service interval: Tesla now recommends rear drive unit gear oil service (not 'lifetime') and a battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi — check service history while the vehicle is on the lift.

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